Nepal’s mysterious and undeniable beauty instantly hits you – flying across its majestic valleys and ridiculously huge mountain ranges, landing in the middle of a stunning ancient culture. For MTB-adventurer/artist Tito Tomasi, Nepal had peaked his must-see list for a long time, and it was time for some action.
From sleeping in the thin air of the Himalayas to downhilling into the Annapurna massif, we join Tito, his friend Geoff Gulevich and documentary filmmaker JB Bazzarini on the journey of a lifetime. Riding from Jomsom to Manang by way of Lo Manthang – and parts of the Annapurna Circuit – with staggering elevations and plains beyond belief, where going off-road is a sure-fire route to unprecedented adventure.
Entering the Kingdom of Mustang
Having explored Nepal for nearly two weeks, I’m returning to Kathmandu with some fresh ideas and a few nice rides. Picking up JB and Geoff, I’m feeling a welcome sense of excitement and wonder as we discuss the road ahead: contingencies, weather, gear, and hydration – lots of hydration.
We’re setting off on a ride around the metropolis to get our bearings. It’s important that we acquaint ourselves with the surrounding jungle and its leeches, not to mention the thick air filling our shirts with sweat.
The country is intense. Mountain biking here is doubly so – delivered to the will of the mountains looming over everything and everyone, with the 8000m peak in sight. In short, we’re riding with a mixed bag of respect and wariness, asking ourselves whether we’re prepared for the road ahead, the answer to which we can only discover by heading into the wild.
It is early in the evening when we reach Jomsom by way of Pokhara, arriving at the gates of the former Kingdom of Mustang. One of the most well-preserved gems of Nepal, reverentially called the Last Lost Kingdom, and the start of our ride.
Upper Mustang
In this part of the world, mountain bikes are a rare sight. We spend a lot of time chatting with people who come into our accommodation for warmth. We meet local guides, Nepalese people visiting family, and tourists out for a trek. Everyone eyes us with curiosity, asking us about our project and our thoughts on the ride ahead. Most agree the route is impossible.
The landscape continues to change daily, with trails taking us from one pass to the next, cutting through the desert and mountains of Upper Mustang, its hamlets and monasteries serving as active memorials to the ancestral Tibetan culture. JB is out getting high-over shots using his drone as we scale the left-most bank for almost an entire day. The afternoon moves on as we cross the Kali Gandaki River to find a jaw-dropping view of the gorge below.
The trails are top-notch, and the riding is splendid. A long crossing ensues as we head north to reach the spiritual heart of Mustang: Lo Manthang – an important checkpoint after our three-day journey. The ‘walled city’ lies at 4,300m near the Chinese border. As we rest in our accommodation, we watch the daylight dim around us, feeling the cold settle in, waiting for a meal before slipping into bed for a bit of sleep.
To Phedi and Beyond
As we descend into the valley, our path crosses a magnificent plateau. The landscape is a spectrum of cliffs, gorges, crevasses, and treacherous climbs. Adaptation is key, as the plateau suddenly stops ahead and leaves us no choice but to find a breach in the rock through which we can descend toward the next village.
Arriving in Phedi, sitting at 4,200m, it is clear our arrival had been announced. The villagers are well-prepared for the mad mountain bikers as monks welcome us with a traditional dance. The people are wonderful, kind-hearted, and open, leading us to a house where they offer us a meal and a bed for the night. We let them try out our bikes as we unwind and prepare for a welcome rest after a rich and beautiful day.
We start getting ready for our pass at 5,400m when we hear that a haze of snow has begun to cover the trail with a thick coat. This is the highest point of our journey, the main objective, which gives rise to no end of legitimate fear. The risk involved, especially with the snow, has become extreme, leading us to question the sanity of soldiering on.
Patience prevails – as it always should, especially in the mountains. We decide to turn back down to town, where warm food and electricity await. The following day, we try again for the mountain ascent, with snow still covering the ground. The difference is that hikers have now carved a path through the snow, making it easier for us to traverse.
Mind you, it’s a ride-‘n-hike, with emphasis on the hike. We push through 20cm-thick icy snow for roughly three hours before reaching a bend in the mountain and a sunrise on the other side. We’re walking, I’m up front, and all the suffering disappears completely as our thoughts are dispelled by the wind rushing through.
Geoff and I reach the peak in a state of transcendence. We’re overjoyed, having touched the height that seemed impossible the day before. Geoff’s usual joking demeanor gave way to mindful silence some time ago, and JB follows close behind, exhausted, carrying the film equipment and capturing our journey while riding and pushing the bike.
The view from the top is worth every drop of cooled sweat.
The Annapurna Massif
Beyond the pass, pure joy ensues. A grand display of glaciers opens around us, with peaks touching the clouds as far as the eye can see. Ahead, we follow a rolling and playful path reaching the heart of the Annapurna massif. JB is ecstatic, trying to capture everything with every camera, as Geoff has a blast behind his handlebars.
The trail is easygoing, even though there’s still snow around us. Our party is complete when we reach the town of Manang, sitting peacefully under the watchful gaze of the Himalayas.
Riding into Manang, a Tibetan town of old located between 7,000m and 8,000m, we do our best to soak up every bit of the unique vibe. Chatting with locals and passing tourists – and eating to our heart’s content. Amazing food in wondrous, high places after a long trek. There’s nothing like it.
Before returning to Kathmandu, we embark on one last adventure: Lake Tilicho – the highest lake in the world at 5,000m above sea level. We opt for a two-day trip, hoping to enjoy the splendor of the surroundings properly.
The choice proves a good one: we get one more night under the stars, waking up to a final mission with a fantastic trail ahead of us. Pro-tip for any journey: Make the last leg one to remember.
Returning to Kathmandu
We ride to Besi Sahar, leaving Mustang, and all its memories, behind us. Back down the mountain, we pass small villages and hamlets. We’re exhausted, but the relief of completing our journey is invigorating.
The rocky mountain terrain gives way to the deep jungle and the raging gorges of the Khola Marsyandi torrent. It is a wild experience and difficult to describe beyond sheer wonder, instant nostalgia mixed with joy to return to our everyday lives.
After a few days of recovery in Kathmandu, Geoff returns to Vancouver for a wedding before playing in a golf tournament. JB is off to Toulouse, where he’ll barely have time to unpack before heading off for another shoot. Myself, I’m headed for Geneva, knowing that life after the magic of Nepal will be forever changed.
