Embark on a 10-day adventure with Scotty Laughland as he explores Italy’s breathtaking mountain bike trails. Discover the stunning landscapes and savor the rich, local cuisine that makes this country a true culinary delight!
Having ridden trails where the best coffee is from, I wanted to discover the trails where arguably the best food can be found. Italy's cuisine and culture date back decades, but what about its mountain bike scene? I’d have 10 days to visit 7 different locations to get a Taste of Italy!
I’ve learned it’s best to seek local guidance to get a taste of anywhere. So, I met with guides and riders at each location who shared their favorite trails and the best of their region. This was going to be a diverse and delicious mountain bike trip.
I start my journey in the Northeast of Italy, in La Thuile, nestled up in the Aosta valley in the Italian Alps. Its surrounding landscapes, glaciers and ridgelines are awe-inspiring, and the riding is incredible. It’s famous for being a natural bike park where, until recently, many of the trails were created and shaped only by hand. As a location, It’s got that big mountain feel where you’re on an adventure with nothing but a ribbon of singletrack in front, but really you’re never too far away, and the dirt, let’s just say it’s Bellissimo, slides, and sprays, yet gives so much traction under your tires!
Next, I’d head South, staying in the Alps and exploring Valle Variata’s network of trails. The trails here are still natural and rugged, but instead of being built, they’re repurposed. They had once been used to move livestock over the mountains. Now, they’re adopted by two wheels, and the passionate local trail association maintains the trails. This was the first time I could understand how the landscape creates the cuisine. After a day on the mountain in mixed conditions, hearty, filling and warm food was required, and it was all sourced, gathered or produced from the surroundings.
Finale Ligure needs no introduction - it’s at the heart of MTB’ing in Italy, and it’s easy to understand why, with over 250 trails to choose from. I read a quote before the trip began: ‘In every Italian town, the day's rhythm begins at the cafe,’ in Finale, it couldn’t be more accurate. While sitting and having a Cappuccino, I heard about how their infrastructure has grown, how mountain biking has created jobs, brought money into Finale and the entire area the trail network expands to, and how MTB’ing is regarded positively by the local community. Again, I wasn’t blessed by the weather on our trip. The conditions weren’t the best, but I had fun. I started by the famous Nato Base after I rode the ‘Roller Coaster.’ If you’ve ridden it, you’ll know where it gets its name, and then it finishes by the sea. It had still been a great day despite being soaked to the skin as I tucked into some Gelato on the promenade!
Further down the Coast, I’d arrive at Piombino. It’s a small trail area and perfect for getting laps on laps in. There’s a good mix of flowy wooded sections combined with technical rock gardens, and the climbs were pretty fun, too. I’d punch in multiple laps, each time riding a different trail, and I couldn’t believe the variety on offer! I ripped freshly shaped berms, hit jumps, rallied newly cut loamers and rattled down rock-strewn gulleys. I’ve always believed that people make the place, and it couldn’t be more accurate here. Piombino was created through passion and love, and Matteo, the head trail builder, guide and bike shop owner, had made Piombino something special. It sounds like there are even bigger plans for its future.
From Piombino, I’d take the ferry over to Elba Island. Located just 10 kilometers from the mainland, it’s easily accessed by boat and takes just one and a half hours. From East to West, at its widest point, it’s only 27 kilometers. The island’s littered with a diverse mix of trails, and I’d start riding on one of the most southerly points of Elba. The unique landscape I was riding on had been created from the island's once iron mining, and it had created perfect rollers and banks that you could pop off of. Some locals had even shaped some jumps.
Afterward, I’d head up to one of the high points, and it felt like I was really at the island's heart. The trail down was a slither of single track with the most incredible panoramic views on either side. I’d timed it perfectly for the sunset, and the views were otherworldly; the golden light glowed off the ocean, making it a mesmerizing sight. My final ride on Elba would be underneath Monte Capanne - the highest mountain on the island. I’d drop into long sections of a rock slab, hitting bold compressions before lapping up again to ride between considerable boulders in a loamy forest littered with Jurassic-like ferns.
My journey would now head Northeast, and I’d visit the Bologna Montana Bike Area. The landscapes contrasted with the places before - here, there were more rolling hills, but they were just as beautiful in their own way. I met with two local guides, Mattia and Giovani, who were keen to show me the best of their home. The terrain was unique and playful, and the sandstone slabs I was riding on provided an abundance of grip. The area was also rich in history, and I shared pieces of trail that the German tanks in World War 2 had used and created as access routes, and they’d left their tracks engraved in the rocks.
The region is famous for its Ragu alla Bolognese, and I’d like to see pasta made from scratch. The love and attention to detail that goes into creating their food similarly goes into their trails. I’d have time for one more lap before dinner. I’d rip through the forest on loamy, fast, flowy and predictable trails, hauling through channels of loose dirt, grinning to myself, thinking this might be the best as the bike bounced effortlessly from side to side of the canyon. When I return to the Refugio, I can confirm that Bolognese tastes best in Bologna.
I carried on North and back into the big mountains for my final stop. This time, though, I was to be on the country's eastern side, and I’d ride in Val di Fassa underneath the mighty Dolomites.
The weather again took a turn for the worse, and a storm blew in early, so I only had one chance. I rode the famous Tutti Frutti Ridgeline, and it didn’t disappoint… Incredible views on either side of the handlebars and the narrow trail with a now greasy top layer only added to its technicality, but it was awesome. I finished off the trip by riding Fassa and Furious, and it was a contrast to the upper section of the mountain, loamy loose dirt flicked up off the tires as I looked for braking points amongst the web of roots - it was fitting to end. Again, each location was as unique as the previous one.
Over 10 days, I got a Taste of Italy. Its varied terrain, breathtaking landscapes and delicious food matched the incredible network of trails. The people were welcoming and excited to show me the best of their trails. I already can’t wait to come back and explore some more!
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Bio
Scotty Laughland is a professional mountain biker, content creator, adventurer and one of the industry's most-rounded riders.