Now that the trails are drying out and the dirt is getting tacky, it’s time to get the mountain bike ready for a long summer of riding and adventures. Whether you’ve taken the entire winter off, or dutifully braved the foul weather to keep riding outside, it’s important to thoroughly inspect your bike at the beginning of each season. The following checklist will help you inspect the bike in detail to ensure that a little part doesn’t cause a big problem out on the trail. With an A+ review of your MTB steed, you’ll have safe, enjoyable riding all year round.
Perform the following inspections and repairs to take care of your equipment, so it will take care of you, ride after ride, all season long:
DISC BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake Pads – Inspect your brake pads to determine how much life is left in them or if it’s time to replace them with a fresh set. Check the pads visually by examining the raised material that contacts the rotor. There should be enough material visible past the metal spring clamp that holds the pads in place. If the material looks slim, it's time to replace your pads.
Another indicator that it’s time to change your brake pads is if you hear a metal-on-metal grinding noise when you brake. That’s the sound of overly worn brake pads that need to be replaced immediately, or you could risk damaging your rotors.
Calipers and Hoses – See if your brake hoses are worn or if the outer casing has been rubbed through at any point. Also, check if there is oil on or around the brake calipers or levers. Both are red flags that parts of the system probably need to be repaired or replaced. Consider changing the hoses and rebleeding, or take your bike to your local shop for repair.
Rotors – Make sure each brake rotor is in good condition. Discoloration on your rotors is a sign to clean or replace your rotors. While some surface wear is normal, too much can lead to poor braking performance.
Also, check if your rotors are true. If you can see a slight bend in the rotor or hear a rubbing noise when you spin the wheel, your rotor is likely bent. Use a rotor straightening tool or ask your shop for help.
Brake Levers – Pull the brake levers – do they feel spongy? Do they pull all the way to the bar? Either symptom can indicate issues like air or contaminants in the brake hoses or a fluid leak. Perform a brake bleed with SHIMANO's easy bleed funnel or take the bike to your favorite local shop for help.
DRIVE TRAIN
Chain - Use a chain wear indicator to determine if the chain is stretched out or if it’s still in the optimal range. A worn chain wears out other (more expensive) components like your bike's chainrings and cassette faster, so check your chain regularly throughout the season and replace it as needed. Additionally, check if the chain is clean. You didn’t put it away dirty, did you? If so, use a brush and degreaser to clean, then re-lube the chain.
Derailleur Pulley/Jockey Wheels – Check that the teeth of your derailleur pulley are in good condition. If they are sharp and pointy, consider replacing the pulley wheels. If they’re full of gunk and grime, scrub and wash each pulley with a degreaser and brush until clean. And remember, lube is best applied to the chain rollers, not all over the pulley wheels where it will attract gunk.
How are the gear changes? Are they as smooth and reliable as when you put it away for the winter, or did someone knock it over in the garage and not tell you? If the shifting is off, check that the derailleur hanger is not bent and that the mounting bolt that attaches to the hanger is torqued to spec.
If the bolt is tight and the hanger is straight, adjust the derailleur up or down the cassette with the barrel adjuster to re-index for better shifting.
Cassette and Chainring – It may be time to replace your cassette or chainring if you see worn teeth that are sharp and pointy. However, if things are simply dirty and grimy, clean everything thoroughly with degreaser, soap, and water to ensure peak shifting performance (don’t forget to lube your chain after cleaning the drivetrain!)
Also, be sure to check that the cassette lock ring and chainring bolts are torqued to spec. You should not be able to wiggle them with your bare hands. If you can, tighten things up and then use a torque wrench to check that all bolts are properly secured.
Cranks – Inspect your cranks for damage. If you see any, replace immediately. Also, make sure the cranks are tightly secured to the frame by grabbing one crank arm and giving it a good push and pull laterally. There should be no play or clicks. Finally, inspect the crank arm bolts on the non-drive side to ensure they have not loosened. Torque to spec or take to your favorite local shop for help.
SUSPENSION
Fork – Check the fork visually and look for any cracks in the stanchions, crown, or lowers. If there is any physical damage, the fork should be taken to a shop or sent back to the manufacturer for evaluation. Inspect the seals for any cracks or leaks. Is there any oil where it shouldn’t be, like dripping down the legs? If so, replace the seals.
Compress the fork by pushing down on the handlebars to make sure it operates smoothly and that the rebound works. If there is rough compression, or no rebound damping, consider sending the fork in for a service.
Do you remember the last time the oil was changed or the fork was serviced? Check with the manufacturer for recommended service intervals. There’s nothing like a fresh fork service, either done yourself or by your local shop, to start out the season.
Finally, check the preload pressure using a shock pump, to ensure that the spring rate is correct for your weight and style of riding.
Rear Shock – Like the fork, visually inspect the rear shock for any signs of severe damage or cracking. If there is any, contact the manufacturer for advice. Is there any oil leaking during compression? Investigate the seals to see if they need to be replaced. When compressing, also check that the rebound setting is correct. Coil shocks use the external spring to determine spring rate, but for air sprung rear shocks, be sure to double check the air preload pressure using a shock pump.
FRAME AND FASTENERS
Bolts and Bearings – Go over the entire bike with a torque wrench to ensure that everything is tightened to spec. This value is usually written on each component in Newton-meters, or the values can be found on the SHIMANO website. The bar and stem bolts are among the most critical bolts to check as they secure the steering and handling. Additionally, check the derailleur mounting bolts, the seat clamp bolt and saddle fixing bolts. Proper torque will prevent slippage and improve longevity of parts and fasteners. If any bolt heads appear worn, consider replacing to avoid stripping fasteners or damaging tools.
Pivot Points and Linkages – These are bolts and bearings of sorts, so smooth operating pivots and linkages ensure optimal suspension performance and are crucial to the structural integrity and function of your ride. If there are grease ports, lubricate pivots with a grease gun using the manufacturer specified lubricant.
Thru Axles – Grab the wheels and give them a lateral shake to check for any play or loose axles. Ensure the thru axles are torqued to spec (or firmly hand tightened if they have a lever). Consider applying waterproof grease to the threads to make sure they do not seize up if riding in foul weather.
Bearings – Test the smoothness of the bearings in your bike’s headset, bottom bracket, hubs, and pedals. Are they crunchy or do they have excess play during normal use? If so, they are in need of service or replacement. Some bearings can be opened up and cleaned/repacked, but other fully sealed designs will require replacement. Headsets and threaded bottom brackets have the most user-friendly replacements for the DIY-inclined. If the bearings require a special removal or installation tool, like press-fit bottom brackets or hubs, head to your local shop, which will be happy to help you with these services.
TIRES
Tires and Sealant – Even sealant that was fresh a few months ago can crust up and become a rubbery latex pancake if left to sit too long. Give the tire a shake and listen for a sloshing noise. If there’s not one, there’s a good chance the sealant has gelled up. To visually inspect, pop one tire bead off the rim and orient the opening at six o'clock. If no liquid sealant flows to the bottom, remove the tire, scoop out the old sealant, and replace it with fresh liquid.
Examine tires for wear or significant damage. If the rubber looks cracked or excessively worn, consider replacing your tires for the start of the season. If the casing is visible through any slashes in the tread or sidewall, it’s time to consider new tires as well.
If in doubt, don’t be afraid to take the bike into your local shop for a preseason inspection. They are professionals after all and will be happy to ensure a bike is safe and in tip top shape, ready for whatever the trail brings in 2023.
